Words by Ella Sangster
Since the launch of his eponymous brand in 2005, Tom Ford has established himself as one of the masters of the fashion runway. His shows are always meticulously constructed, with every detail, from hair and makeup to the music and lighting, feeding into the creation of a show that is both aesthetic and emotive.
Tom Ford’s Spring ‘22 Ready to Wear show was no exception, with a dimly-lit runway models emerged into audience view, creating striking visuals with the mood lighting and dark background starkly contrasting the glitz and glamour of the collection. The sleek set design was a clear homage to the luxury status of the brand and acted as a simple backdrop for a collection which was a theatrical exploration of fashion futurism.
In essence, the show was an ode to post-pandemic maximalism within the framework of Ford’s typical luxe style. Opened by a series of brightly-coloured looks adorned in sequins, including athleisure-inspired pants cut to knee-length, racerback singlets, and open blouses held together by knots at the navel. The garments were in a range of fuschia, aqua, orange and slime-green shades, and reflective of the reemergence of the New York party scene in the past months. The outfits were accessorised with crystal-studded chokers and layers of gold chains and pearl necklaces, as well as metallic heels and nylon bags.
These bright garments were followed by a series of monochromatic looks with the continued addition of gold accessories. Drawing inspiration from major Y2K trends, the collection featured a futuristic take on low-rise pants, corset bodices, and zip-up jumpers adorned with studs and in fabrics typical of the early 2000’s such as neoprene and velour. There were also obvious nods to the eighties, with skin-tight V-neck tops and shoulder-padded jackets and dresses. This segment felt like a fun intersection of trends both past and present, juxtaposing impeccable tailoring with experimental silhouettes and interesting layering.
The monochrome sector gave way to a parade of metallic designs including ankle-length dresses and skirts in bias cuts, along with the continuation of sharp suiting, sheer fabrics, and revealing necklines.
The collection felt inherently informed by the impact of the pandemic on fashion, symbolising Ford’s readiness for an exuberant post-pandemic world. Backstage Ford told Vogue “My clothes this season are simple in cut but not in impact.” Through this collection Ford has reflected the onset of over the top design that is set to define the new roaring twenties as the world begins to emerge from the minimalism that characterised the fashion world over the last eighteen months.