Updated: Dec 8, 2022
Words by Ella Sangster
In a New York Fashion Week that has been characterised by extravagance and eclecticism, the dystopian feel of Dion Lee’s Autumn ‘22 collection set the Australian designer apart once again.
Despite the collections’ moody palette, it still emulated the essence of post-pandemic dopamine dressing that has reigned supreme on the New York runways thus far.
Lee has typically rejected bright hues ever since launching his eponymous label in 2009, opting to focus on construction over colour. This collection was no different, with models taking to the runway in neutral, modular garments that blended industrial contours and sharp tailoring with soft textiles and sex appeal.
The collection is best summarised as a futuristic twist on 90’s-club-kid regalia, with the neutral looks occasionally interrupted by pops of cobalt and tangerine, all set against the backdrop of an industrial warehouse and thumping trip-hop.
Lee married his signature braided knits and subversive basics with PVC corsetry, utilitarian cuts and the minniest of mini skirts. Oh, and who could forget the balaclava-esque head coverings.
The looks cultivated a sense of ominousness, with hoods reminiscent of Jedi robes and sharp, villainous tailoring pointing towards an underlying dystopian theme. They served to subvert the references to fetishwear bought about by the harnesses and cut-out lace bodysuits.
As per Lee’s usual style, deconstruction was at the forefront of the collection. Interwoven tank tops, cape-dresses with hemline cut-outs and multi-wear sweater vests were an ode to the brand's history whilst still maintaining the futuristic notes of the collection at hand.
The looks were topped off with fur-lined heels, gladiator sandals and chunky rain boots, which are appearing to be a 2022 staple.
This collection highlights Lee’s position as a trailblazer for the modern fashion generation. His ability to balance grit with opulence, sexiness with structure, and partywear with practicality is a skill few have been able to master with such excellence.